Riccardo Tisci’s Burberry is not one that is bogged down by tradition and bureaucracy. Of course, that’s not to say the 165 year legacy of the house is disregarded, but rather Tisci is led by his own instinct and savoir faire, adopting his own approach to British tailoring and design. He’s not emulating Thomas Burberry, nor does he want to be.
Tisci’s modus operandi is on full display in his Spring/Summer 2022 collection. Entitled ‘Animal Instinct’ Tisci comments “I wanted to move through a series of immersive spaces, each of them unique and unexpected in their sound, texture and experience”.
“To me”, he continues, “this presentation really represents the freedom of our imaginations: how we dream to come alive. This is for my mother, Elmerinda, and to a journey full of new possibilities”.
The result was a cacophony of colour, movement, space and time. One viewing evokes an almost provincial commute through London. Models wander empty industrial spaces, avoid an ambush of dancers and traverse the universal highway in Tisci’s sportif chic and whimsical collection—an auditory journey for the ages. The timeless classic that is the iconic Burberry trench coat is reinvented with new sophistication, sleeveless outerwear and mini coats are refreshed with youthful energy for a bright Burberry future.
New injections are seen in the vivid, geometric prints that’s cut into fringed dresses and outwear, along with the new Rhombi bag— a new ellipse-shaped shoulder bag inspired by the abstract curved prints seen throughout the collection. Both the multicoloured and monochromatic version of these prints are reminiscent of a Rorschach test. Delve deep into your inner psyche, what will be revealed?
Tisci’s desire for freedom of movement is best exemplified in his athleisure wear. Mesh tops are styled like oversized basketball jerseys and buckled corsets are recast as a hoodie. Most notably is the influence of animals in the collection. Jockey helmets are recontextualised as contemporary fascinators perfect for the royal ascot, whilst equestrian style trousers are slimline and sexy.
This silhouette is seen in neutral shades of soft fawn and Burberry beige, but most importantly in a full bodysuit made of crystal net and tulle. This sensual side of Burberry is something that Tisci continues to explore every season, soon to be a signature style for the house.
“It’s that idea of flicking between the needless realistes and fantasies we have at our fingertips each day”, Tisci tells us. It’s Riccardo’s world, we’re just living in it.
Continue reading below for marie claire’s favourite looks from the Burberry Spring/Summer 2022 collection.
