With MBFWA newly re-branded Resort Collections, designers are asking themselves what, exactly, that should look like on the runway. Is it about high summer? Or introducing Swim? More prints? More white?
Sometimes referred to as Cruise, Resort is a “shoulder” or “pre” season that picks up where Spring /Summer left off before Autumn/Winter is ready to drop.
Traditionally, it was about selling holiday gear to the jet-setting elite, because these collections land in stores in November, when northern Europe and much of the US is freezing. The only customers there in need of white palazzo pants were those who habitually wintered in tropical playgrounds.
But in today’s global fashion world, Resort has wider appeal. These clothes suit sunnier climes, so sell well in Asia and South America. Plus they have a longer shelf life than the other seasons – from November to March.
All this suits Australian designers looking to sell internationally. Hot weather fashion in November? Well, dur – we’re on that.
Ginger and Smart, who showed on Monday morning, say that for them Resort ’16 means “lighter, more fluid silhouettes with a definite holiday feel.”
To underline that statement, their first look – a white “lace long-sleeved swimsuit” from their new swimwear capsule - was accessorised with a sunhat so big the model could have pitched it as a tent. And indeed the designers’ ideas were on a similar grand scale – no local jaunt to the beach for them; they were inspired by “the earth’s reflection from space”.
Newcomer Albus Lumen was in vacation mode, showing loose and lovely dresses, playsuits, wide-leg pants and what can best be described as robes in airy silks, linens and butter-soft suedes. If Misha Collection was going anywhere, it was a nightclub – her sassy girl gang led by Bella Hadid wore only black, nude and gold. New Zealander Georgia Alice was out all night too – starting her show with a laser light effect and models in almost total darkness. When we finally did get to see what they were wearing, it was fabulous – she’s one to watch.
Others played with summery, sherbet colours and holiday prints. Yeojin Bae’s were candy brights. At Aje, there was a standout leaf print in swimming pool blues.
Yellow (alas notoriously difficult to wear) was everywhere. Maticevksi tempered his on Sunday with ice blue and white, but Rebecca Vallance was unequivocal – it was pineapple hues top-to-toe. Easier to pull off, but equally evocative of a days in the sun, were her striped dresses. The best example was off-the-shoulder, with a festive little ruffled skirt.
There was yellow at Dion Lee too – an icy lemon satin edged with clear crystals. Lee ended the day on a major trip – rocketing guests up to a rooftop garden on the 28th floor of the Bloomberg Building. His collection was beautiful – dancing with light, and building on the new ease he’s been displaying the last couple of seasons. Lee doesn’t have anything to prove anymore – he’s just brilliant.