In 2020, we saw the world ravaged by chaos. It was an unprecedented era, one that has cemented its place as one of the most turbulent in human history. And while disorder may have reigned supreme, so, too, did a desperation for escapism—a desire to revel in ephemeral dreams—because who knows how much time we really have on this earth?
We sought hope in astrology. We craved answers that would transport us, somewhere far away from own complicated earthly existence. And we weren’t alone in our pursuits. This desire to explore the unknown, while fearlessly looking deep inside oneself, is precisely what drove Dior Creative Director Maria Grazia Chiuri’s latest efforts, manifesting in the French maison’s Spring-Summer 2021 Haute Couture collection.
Inspired by Christian Dior’s own beliefs in the divinatory arts and signs of destiny, Chiuri, like many of us amid a period of uncertainty, found herself drawn to more mystical forces marked by a palpable desire to reconnect with the world’s soul. In Chiuri’s case, that meant 15th century Visconti-Sforza tarot cards originally designed for the Duke of Milan—a set of keys to accessing the magical realm—which formed the collection’s esoteric motifs, dark jewel tones and dusty gold palette.
In yet another sign of the times, with many runway shows cancelled amid an ongoing pandemic, the collection was stunningly unveiled in a 15-minute short film directed by Matteo Garrone, titled Le Château de Tarot, revealing the voyage to the heart of a castle filled with characters embodying the Major Arcana—the card that symbolises life lessons, karmic influences and the big archetypal themes that are influencing your life and your soul’s journey to enlightenment—as they question and disorient, inviting the viewer to view the world, and their inner path, from a new perspective.
Such themes translated magnificently in the designs. With haute couture having long been fashion’s vessel for unbridled exploration—its very nature a beautiful metaphor for our internal journeys—the symbolism of the tarot comes alive.
A clairvoyant asks to draw a card in a deck designed as a catalogue of possibilities, a cryptic dictionary of the world. The High Priestess, the Empress, Justice, the Hanged Man, the Fool, and the Devil are sublimated through the excellence of savoir-faire, celebrating the art of weaving. Lace is shown inlaid with hand-painted embellishments, golden velvet is brought to life with the signs of the zodiac, and precious jacquard is sprinkled with stars. Illustrations by Pietro Ruffo were featured in several designs, while a cape trimmed in multicoloured feathers showcased an unexpected use of volume.
Timeless Dior iconography is also present in this otherworldly realm, most notably a reimagining of the Bar Jacket in black velvet, its curves reinterpreted to express a new attitude. Moreover, the maison’s signature grey makes its appearance in the form of tweed, cashmere and organza on shirts, skirts, pants and capes.
See some of the best looks from the Dior’s Spring-Summer Haute Couture 2021 collection below.
