When we forecasted that the punk renaissance would soon be upon us, we would’ve never guessed that a mere week later the tartan tropes and rebellious spirit of the 1970’s counterculture scene would’ve cropped up on the high-fashion runways.
Enter Dior’s Fall 2022 collection, an unconventional yet familiar exploration of the concept of uniform dressing.
Channelling the spirit of the ‘youthquake’ movement, Dior leans into the pioneering and prolific women that have shaped the maison—including Christian Dior’s younger sister and WWII resistance fighter, Catherine—examining the motifs of military and school attire with a fashion-forward lens.
Taking place at Seuol’s Ewha Womans University, Dior welcomes us to our new alma mater—we’re all alumni here.
The cohort (read: high-fashion supermodels) are impeccably dressed to the nines in sportif ensembles that reflects the unique ecosystem of a college quadrangle.
To commence the show, a handful of skateboarders effortlessly glide over the runway, or should we say skatepark. Then, the distinctly repetitive bassline British duo Wet Leg’s ‘Chaise Lounge’ begins as the first model appears on the runway.
If the references to schooling weren’t apparent enough, the nonchalant and tongue-in-cheek unenthusiastic vocals brings it home: Dior wants you to go to school and get the big ‘D’. Degree, that is.
But what do you wear on your first day? If it was up to Maria Grazia Chiuri you’d don mustard tartan kilts, neckties, beige cargo pants, shearling bombers and pleated skirts. The book tote would be your go-to for carrying your school work, with the vibe bowling bag the accessory of choice for P.E classes.
If ‘Chaise Lounge’ is the school of Dior’s anthem, then the crest is a MGC original—an emblem that reads “L’union fait la force (strength through unity)”, or as Dior puts in it a press release “a rallying cry reaffirming the collaborative dimension at the heart of Maria Grazia Chiuri’s creative process”.
The show pays homage to the fashion industry’s ever increasing focus on juvenile aesthetics. From the perfectly preppy silhouettes to punk patterns, the collection reflects the attitude of Dior’s women: she’s a rule breaker, she is serving main character energy.
It’s clear that MGC has been closely following the international runway circuit by delivering her own personal take on this school uniform inspired trend.
The influence of Miu Miu’s sheared mini skirts and cropped cable knit sweaters can not be denied, with this set the catalyst for a variety of other fashion houses to put their own spin and interpretation on how they’d dress the class of 2022. Coperni also followed suit on this trend, presenting a slightly sensual and defiant take on school yard appropriate designs.
However for Dior, the inspiration of outfitting a university doesn’t stop at the garments. In collaboration with Ewha Womans University, Dior will oversee a corporate social responsibility program, including providing scholarships and Women@Dior internship initiative.
Despite this collection’s silhouettes kept utilitarian, with a focus put on practically rather than aesthetics, it’s in the essence of Dior that everything ultimately looks good. Come Spring, these high-octane patterns will flood the streets of New York and Paris as the go-to street style ensemble.
As per Maria Grazia Chiuri’s wishes: class is in session.
The Women’s 2022 Fall Collection is now available to shop in stores across Australia, including an exclusive popup in Chadstone (running from 5-31 May).
