Sweatshirts and track pants begone! The virtual Fendi runway show, held in Milan on Wednesday afternoon, was a stream of perfectly polished and put-together looks. Lockdown who? This was a collection for women on the go.
The occasion marked the first ready-to-wear line for new creative director Kim Jones, who follows in the footsteps of the late Karl Lagerfeld. But while there were hints of Lagerfeld’s legacy on the catwalk – namely ‘Karligraphy’ monograms stamped on leather bags, hoisery and gleaming gold pendants – the collection really paid homage to the women of Fendi. The matriarchal Roman house was founded by Adele and Edoardo Fendi in 1925, but soon passed on to their five daughters Anna, Paola, Carla, Franca and Aida.
Jones drew inspiration from the eternally chic wardrobes of these women, along with Anna’s daughter and current creative director of accessories and menswear, Silvia Venturini Fendi. “The Fendi family are women of intellect who work hard – and that’s what I wanted to celebrate,” noted Jones before the show. “A powerful dynasty.”
So what would these women wear, according to Jones’s vision? Luxurious silk slips, slick knee-high boots, pleated wool shorts and sumptuously snuggly shearling coats. Palette-cleansing shades of camel and taupe starred, along with slinky knit dresses, cashmere crops, timeless trench coats and accessories aplenty, from grown-up hair barrettes to slouchy, oversized handbags. Many of the looks featured problematic fur, though some was upcycled from the house’s archives.
Despite the lashings of luxe, wearability shone through too. “I’m taking the amazing, strong women who I both know and work with, and listening to their needs,” Jones said of his careful balance of function and flair - something we can definitely get behind. After all, for autumn/winter last year, Australians were confined to their couches in those aforementioned track pants. This year we’ll be taking cues from the women of Fendi.