You never quite know what to expect with Paris Couture Week, but at Fendi, Kim Jones made an argument that couture is made to be worn, not just looked at (or these days, go viral on Instagram and TikTok).
Seemingly inspiration from the stars — or perhaps the future possibilities of living amongst them — Jones delivered a heavenly collection of evening gowns in shades of silver, beige, and grey that seemed to float down the runway. (“I wanted to do lightness because for me, couture always seems quite staid and heavy,” Jones said earlier.)
The softness continued with silk draped over lace-edged bras, swooping tulle and intricate beading, in contrast to the chainmail-like gloves worn throughout. In fact, the chainmail effect was created by laser cutting soft leather, celebrating the artistry and craftmenship behind couture fashion and drawing on Fendi’s leather roots.
“This season, I wanted to concentrate on the techniques and craft of couture, with the lightness, fluidity and attitude of today,” Jones said in the show notes.
“It’s a celebration of the ateliers and the craftspeople who realise these garments, the intense work and emotional commitment to each piece that exists for both maker and wearer, and how the intimate traditions of the couture are both living and breathing. The collection is an inner world made into an external one – both figuratively and literally – with a sense of underwear becoming eveningwear.”
For beauty, makeup artist Peter Philips kept it simple, opting for pearlescent products (like Dior’s Backstage universal glow palette) that would bounce off the skin. He also worked with hairstylist Guido Palau on the slicked back hair with visible combing.
“It was clear that the delicate approach of the silhouettes, the lace-inspired detail, and the soft color palette wouldn’t benefit from a bold makeup look,” Philips said.
With guests including Kerry Washington, Milly Alcock, and Rita Ora, the collection was a triumphant look to the future, while honouring Fendi’s storied past.
