Practical. Not an obviously sexy word. But with his Spring '17 BOSS show, Jason Wu
just made a convincing case for it being one of next season's key themes.
Since we're in the middle of a maximalist moment (it's the Gucci effect) and there's so much sartorial trickery on the runways (Hood By Air, we're talking about your two-direction boots), a spot of clean-lined elegance feels refreshing indeed.
Wu, who has been artistic director of BOSS womenswear and accessories since 2013 and still designs his own eponymous line out of New York, presented a coherent collection of midi-length silk slip dresses, utility styling and flattering soft tailoring. In his capable hands the shorts-suit turns smart.
The future's bright, he said, via these totally wearable clothes. Specifically: bright red, emerald and cobalt blue with black and white, and acid yellow highlights. But even the brightest pieces, like the vivid green dress worn by the first model out, friend of the Hugo Boss house and repeat campaign star Sasha Pivovarova, still have have lovely manners.
They're great for work as well as play - anywhere, really, where you want to look polished.
What else? "See Now, Buy Now" is the new craze, with every major house talking about reinventing the runway and smashing the fashion system, hence BOSS debuted its covetable new "BOSS Bespoke Soft" bag at the show, while simultaneously launching it online and in (selected) stores. It's a lovely, big luxurious tote, as squashy as its name suggests and available in Wu's latest primary colours, but you can't buy the rest of the show looks yet. For now, they're keeping the story simple.
Beautiful, sensible, smart and, yes, practical, this was fashion you can actually wear, and there's nothing wrong with that.