Christopher Esber
After a week of being crammed onto uncomfortable wooden benches at Carriageworks, the home of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, Christopher Esber won applause for choosing to show in a furniture store packed with comfortable sofas.
The softly spoken designer made plenty of noise with a collection inspired by Ancient Greek sculptures, resulting in beguiling T-shirts and sweatshirts with subtle folds elevating them beyond wardrobe staples to luxury items.
The palette of pale whites and icy blues (seen everywhere this week) found it’s away across lace, linen and silk and into eveningwear with the ribbed jersey bodices of your next formal dress offering relief by the time the third course is served.
Client Liaison
Imagine your parents forgot to unpack their luggage from a trip to Queensland’s Expo 88 and it was discovered by Australia’s DJ delights Client Liaison.
Harvey Miller and Monte Morgan already exude Antipodean ‘80s glamour on stage but transported 500 guests back in time at the Overseas Passenger Terminal to see printed jumpsuits, football shorts, and sweaters inspired by social page staples Pixie and Christopher Skase before their financial disgrace.
It’s not just the authentic, almost unadulterated ‘80s look of the pieces that create overwhelming nostalgic delight. Somehow each garment has the texture of something languishing at the back of your wardrobe after countless turns in the dryer.
Ten Pieces
Restaurateur Maurice Terzini and partner Lucy Hinkfuss continue to give Bondi hipsters and urban edge with their label Ten Pieces.
The Rude collection, absorbed avidly by Joe Jonas in the front row and the miniscule Veonicas, featured cropped tailored white jackets, sleeveless turtlenecks, basic black shorts embellished with artful stencils and garbage man green jumpsuits and coats with dashes of yellow.
Pull cords, exposed zips and hi-vis logos added to the utilitarian approach that will appeal to those who consider raising a tequila on ice heavy lifting.
Akira
With an exhibition in the works at the Museum of Applied Arts and Sciences, a book off to the printers and a 25th anniversary on the calendar Australia’s most-loved designer Akira Isogawa defied expectations by showing a collection that was fresh and energetic, without looking back.
Akira’s Japanese tropes were absent as he dove into the mosh pit of ‘80s aggression, complete with models in Dr Martens. The Romper Stomper vibe was balanced by a naïve palette that included baby pink plaid, washed out florals and icy blues.
Exaggerated sweaters with appliqued palm trees, layered ruffle dresses and knee-length shorts with graphic black stripes against blue and pink backdrops were punctuated by a perfect pink, sleeveless dress that showed Akira’s casual mastery of cutting.
Camilla
This was always going to be an emotional outing with Australia’s undisputed queen of the kaftan recently diagnosed with breast cancer following the birth of her first child.
Camilla’s closing tour de force showed that nothing can keep her down, transporting guests to a mythical MGM musical version of Japan, where countless prints inspired by fans, cherry blossoms and the bold graphics of Tokyo emerged on pyjama pants, flowing coats and evening dresses.
Stand out pieces were bold sweaters in punchy purple with slogans like neon billboards at the Shibuya crossing and embellished leather jackets, appealing to a young audience who have no desire to lounge poolside in an ensemble coveted by their mother.
Kudos to Franks for respecting her older clientele, sending out a number of more mature models including the breathtaking ‘90s staple Emma Balfour. Rather than put the older models in daggy designs like some of her contemporaries, Camilla gave them all showstoppers before taking her own, well-deserved, bow.
