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Milan Fashion Week Revealed The Secrets Of The World's Biggest Fashion Houses

The Fall 2020 shows offered a veritable exposé on what really goes on behind-the-scenes - by Elle Halliwell
  • 26 Feb 2020

Transparency pervaded the Milan runways this season, in all its forms.

Heralding fashion’s new era of inclusiveness and lucidity, designers have taken us behind the fabrics; exposing the machinations of their labels’ inner workings and ethea.

Watch Below: Bella Hadid Walks Max Mara's Milan Fashion Week Show

In some cases, transparency was literal, with diaphanous shifts at Prada and sheer puff-sleeve blouses at Max Mara contrasting with the predictably opaque fall offering.

But in a unique twist, it was also conceptual. For Gucci’s Fall 2020 presentation Alessandro Michele essentially broke traditional fashion show protocol – the canon that ‘what happens backstage, stays backstage’ – ripping down the curtains and giving us a peek inside the sacred space once reserved for model meltdowns and pre-show chaos.

The presentation, held in the round, displayed dozens of dressers (each clad in grey Mao-style Gucci suits) and models, as they prepped in full view of the audience.

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1,161 likes - View Post on Instagram
Unveiling what lies behind the curtains, @alessandro_michele's #GucciFW20 women's collection debuted inside a rotating structure featuring a neon lit metronome. Discover more through link in bio. #AlessandroMichele #mfw #GucciTheRitual

The Emporio Armani fall collection, Be A Poem, began with an ode to environmentalism, with pieces from the fashion house’s R-EA collection boldly stating their eco-friendly origins via embroidered slogans such as “I’m saying yes to recycling”.

And while designer Giorgio Armani’s comments – in which he likened fashion’s treatment of women to ’rape’ when it came to influencing their purchasing choices - largely overshadowed the show, the brand’s eco-friendly message was impossible to misconstrue.

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Dolce & Gabbana also lifted the veil, but in this instance, it focussed on the production process, celebrating the artisans which produce the Italian label’s distinct designs for its Fall 2020 collection, titled Made by Hand.

Guests were welcomed to the space by knitters and cobblers at work, while film of craftspeople such as weavers, tailers and leather workers was projected along the runway as models presented the results of their craftsmanship.

“The past and the authenticity are linked to the future through a new interpretation/translation of the ‘handmade’,” Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana said of the collection.

It’s no surprise the concept of transparency has found its way onto the ready-to-wear runways, with more and more consumers posing the question of “who made my clothes?” and aligning themselves with brands whose motivations and values reflect their own.

“It is certainly not all about the looks anymore,” says Ethical Fashion Australia’s national manager Angela Bell. “If a brand isn’t doing the right thing, then (conscious consumers aren’t) interested in knowing who they are and that’s becoming a really common point for the conscious customer that’s emerging globally and in Australia.”

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Elle Halliwell
Elle Halliwell
Elle Halliwell is a freelance journalist, author, wellbeing advocate and mum from Sydney. She divides her time between writing, finding a cure for blood cancer and wrangling a small human, and concedes that if the family cat stopped draping itself over her MacBook during work hours, she would get a lot more done.

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