Designer Miuccia Prada said the inspiration behind her collection show in Milan came from the Viennese succession period when the intelligentsia, creatives and artisans “worked together to create something good” as a counterpoint to the Industrial Revolution. The bottom line of the collection? Strong women don't have to give up being feminine. Elegant fringing was paired with strong-shouldered, belted jackets.
Painters, poets and philosophers, composers, cartoonists and crooners from Shakespeare to Stevie Nicks, TS Eliot to Tracy Emin, Jeanette Winterson to Jean Genet; they have all felt the lure of the sea. Max Mara shares their fascination. The maritime theme yields a variety of silhouettes and a newer way to mix Max Mara's signature camel, grey, white and navy. The collection boasted coats of all kinds, officer class greatcoats, capes, cabans, and duffels with toggles and tassels. Of course, an epic sea adventure requires a fair amount of stowage, hence the brand's Marine bag capacious and soft but with a structure like a ship’s keel
Fendi's recent Fall/Winter 2020 show at Milan Fashion Week presented a polished and seductive range that celebrated the multifaceted, modern woman. Inspired by the subversive idea of “soft power,” the collection seeks to take the boudoir into the boardroom, with items of clothing typically associated with sensual pleasure seamlessly woven into the work wardrobe of women in authority. Creative Director Silvia Venturini Fendi‘s take on executive fashion arrived in the form of leather outerwear designed with a perfectly nipped waist - all the while designing the second-skin-like silhouette for a diverse size range.
Gucci's Alessandro Michele took the fashion crowd behind-the-scenes at Milan Fashion Week. Michele created a set resembling backstage at a fashion show, with the idea was to showcase not just the finished product but also the linings and seams. Behind panes of glass on a revolving circular platform, Michele’s own team of grey-suited dressers, hairstylists and make-up artists moved as if preparing for a show backstage.
Craig Green and JW Anderson were among the eight designers who created fresh takes on the puffer jacket for Moncler's extensive 2020 Genius collection at Milan Fashion Week. As the third iteration of Moncler's Genius project, the brand's latest Autumn/Winter show saw twelve different digital-themed installations and eight new lines debuted as part of Milan Fashion Week 2020. "In its third edition, Moncler Genius keeps on evolving and exploring new horizons, different categories and novel approaches to communication that give a voice to personal creativity," said the brand.
The Moschino Fall 2020 show was held in Milan, but it seems designer Jeremy Scott had Paris on his mind. Marie Antoinette was at the centre of the collection, with models dressed in sky-high wigs in varying shades from pastel pink to chestnut, while frilled bustiers and rich velvet jacquard were among corseted skirts. These looks were, of course, mixed among Moschino’s signature moto-jacket ease and matching accessories.
Sportmax is fresh off of a 50th anniversary year and corresponding book in which it's brand of practical, essential pieces celebrate. On the runway, outerwear, the eternal symbol of the brand, takes centre stage. Capes, coats, jackets and raincoats are fashioned with unconventional rows of buttons and are updated with exaggerated shoulders, detachable collars and decor embellishments. Jackets are often defined by compact volumes that compliment short skirts or high-waisted, slightly-flared trousers. The same slacks and skirts are effortlessly married with the billowing elegance of delicate blouses lavished with demi ruffles or anterior plissé. Layered vests and bodices are dominated by faux leather in solid colours or silver matched with fluid silk and knit dresses. Leather is also worked into pleated inserts or combined with knits, infused into tops, jumpsuits, skirts and pants.
Boss took over the Social Music City space and decked it out in lilac and models including Irina Shayk, Bella Hadid and Adut Akech walked around an oval runway to the sounds of a live orchestra. The AW20 collection – called Generations – was all about reworking old classics into a more modern and fluid aesthetic. The brand's signature tailoring was given a 2020 update thanks to the sharp silhouettes in new fabrics and colours.
Donatella Versace debuted her Fall/Winter 2020 collection in Milan during Fashion Week, marking the first time she showed her line as completely co-ed. The brand's glamour and sensual elements were still very much there, with classic sparkly mini's, cutouts and bodycon fits at the centre of the collection.
Daniel Lee's Bottega Veneta Fall/Winter collection evoked sensuality and self-expression and explored new hues for the brand including a kiwi and chocolate. It was really Lee's accessories that had all eyes though, seeing how the brand would offer up new iterations of cult pieces.
Walter Chiapponi was musing on the concept of ‘good taste’ for his debut show as Tod’s creative director. For his debut, Chiapponi stayed true to the brand's DNA of classic, iconic and must-have pieces - all with the luxurious and relaxed feel we've come to know and love from the label. The silhouette is feminine and self-assured, with shoulders always under the spotlight. This concept of daywear nurtures the senses, moving away from the extremes of fashion