Since 1966, the Saint Laurent woman has worn the pants. That year, young French couturier Yves Saint Laurent debuted Le Smoking, a sleek and tailored tuxedo defined by strong shoulders and an air of androgyny. At the time, it was controversial for women to wear pants in public and the original couture collection garnered only one order, but soon the style set caught on and took to the daring silhouette with gusto.
For Fall 2021, creative director Anthony Vaccarello explored the Saint Laurent archives to create a collection with a distinct 1960s and ’70s flavour. There are pants – lots of pants – in high-waisted, leg-lengthening cuts, velvety textures and earthy shades of olive and rust. Blazers are neat and nipped-in, blouses are adorned with dainty prints, and dresses are decked out in dots and plaid. The look might be softer than that of the aforementioned tux – though the accessories on offer (thigh-grazing boots and all) epitomise sharp sophistication.
Since taking the helm at the house in 2016, Vaccarello hasn’t shied away from a statement or extravaganza; his Winter 2021 presentation earlier this year was an epic short film produced in cinematic locales, from Arctic tundras to sheer cliff faces in Iceland. No surprises that this juxtaposition of luxury against the landscape – which saw models storming through nature in metallic bodysuits, bejewelled evening jackets, feather-trimmed minis, ’60s-inspired tweed suits and lashings of jewels – was splashed all over social media.
Fall 2021 might be a quieter release, but the clothes speak for themselves: beautifully made, wonderfully wearable and just a little bit rebellious. And above all, true to the house’s rich heritage.
For more information, head to Saint Laurent or visit the Saint Laurent Melbourne flagship on Collins Street.
