At Dior’s Spring/Summer 2022 Haute Couture collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri once again cements herself as a grand couturier with her ode to masterful artisans and the meaningful collaborations that construct a fashion empire.
At the heart of the collection lies a “desire to abolish the boundaries between arts and craft”, reads a press release.
It’s a complete contrast to the kaladospic wearable avant-garde art emerging designer Jordan Gogos is pioneering, but Dior’s collection pushes the boundaries, calling for haute couture to be a fully realised “three-dimensional conceptual act”.
Despite the collection filled with plenty of Chiuri-isms, read: pristine tailoring and modest hemlines, exquisite embroidery is the focal point of the presentation, contrasting the structural simplicity of Chiuri’s designs with the work of a skillful atelier.
Speaking to the prevalence of embroidery in the collection, Dior revealed in its show notes that this was “a symbol of the atelier’s original excellence not just a decorative detail. It gives fabric its structure, its architecture”.
This is most apparent in the striking asymmetrical bodysuits and signature evening dresses adorned with “shards” that give movement to the material.
Tulle is embroidered with tassels of fine pearls and diamond shaped satin tubes to make the romantic gown to end all gowns. Elsewhere in the collection, silk crepe dance across the models body in floor grazing ecru skirts and gunmetal day dresses.
It’s fluid femininity at its finest.
A focus on structured shapes is seen in the androgynous suiting, with a minimalist white eyeliner complimenting the collection’s architecture with a Euphoria-esque twist.
Staples of menswear, including vests and waistcoats, are given a modern makeover with fringe embroidered onto fishnet and organza.
While Dior is rooted in traditional French craftsmanship, Chiuri is ushering in a new era for the maison with her collaboration with Indian artist couple Madhvi and Manu Parekh, the Chanakya Atelier and the Chanakya School of Craft.
Arts and crafts defy boundaries and borders, with collaboration and creativity the crux of the collection.
Dior’s Spring/Summer 2022 Haute Couture collection is suitable to every palette, and will definitely satisfy your appetite.
For marie claire’s favourites from the collection, keep scrolling below.
