There’s no denying that every collection that leaves the Zimmermann atelier has an atmosphere of elevation, sophistication and their quintessential homage to Australian style.
And in their Fall 2022 presentation, it appears that the homegrown fashion house has impressed us yet again.
An ode to the stars—and the zodiacs that they represent—the collection was clearly inspired by astrology and how the constellations determine individual personality traits, hence the collection being named ‘Stargazer’.
“For our Fall collection we found inspiration in the stars. There’s always been something so fun and intriguing to me about pop astrology and the idea that our personalities are influenced by our birth signs,” Nicky Zimmermann, the brand’s creative director, said in a press release.
As the models floated through rooms of different warm, earthy hues, the lit-up arches they passed beneath illuminated each of the textural and printed motifs adorned on each garment. Working with artist Anita Inverarity, Zimmermann developed 12 key prints that represent each sign of the zodiac, incorporating them into a multitude of looks throughout the presentation.
“We picked up the symbols and icons of the zodiac in our detailing and finishes and there’s a conscious clash of fabric textures in each look. It’s a collection that’s high on finer details. Maybe that’s a bit of the Virgo in me coming through!” Zimmermann explained.
Conjuring up a visually rich world of motifs and symbols inspired by celestial folklore, the collection’s ode to astrology—thanks to the help of Inverarity—reimagines the classic Zimmermann woman in imaginary scenes that emulate each star sign. Much like the illustrator’s folk-like characters, each look is layered and luscious, with a focus on clashing prints and weighted outerwear.
As the selection of diverse models swanned down the runway, all eyes drew to the collection’s silhouettes with an emphasis on pulled-in waists and artfully placed volume, paired with bespoke craft embellishment and intricate embroidery. Opulence was a given with a colour range of rich blues, kelly greens, red-oranges and a kaleidoscope of print to effectively emulate the spirit of the collection.
Throughout the collection, catsuits rose to prominence, serving as a key layering piece with an array of micro wool skirts and oversized outerwear. Stretch satin boots and velvet platforms quite literally carried the collection throughout the presentation, perfectly juxtaposing the layered looks.
Speaking of layering, double-flare pants and tiered crinoline ruffles draped from georgette took centre stage alongside stunning floor-length gowns that housed a delicate orchestra of beaded hems, styled effortlessly with chunky knitwear, scarves and an abundance of rings.
When it came to volume, opulent outerwear offered playful proportions, especially through their jacquard coats with faux fur collars. High sheen, elongated bomber jackets, faux leather trimmed boucle pea coats, knitted ponchos and fringed capes filled the rest of the collection, with all eyes on the sherling coat, completed with patchwork and hand crochet braiding.
Straight from Italy, luxe wool suiting is present in clashing checks and paired with lurex knitwear, while denim got an upgrade with non-traditional details printed with zodiac symbols and finished with velvet and crystal embellishment. Another ode to the stars can be seen through the use of crescent moons, which appear on belt buckles, zippers and jewellery with no detail spared.
For a playful twist, polka dot puff dresses glint in gold and black hues, while shimmering tulle is draped in cascading stars, with individual embroidered zodiac discs. Exaggerated shoulders, fringe necklines and floating handkerchief hems were in abundance, proving that Zimmermann’s ethereal energy was ever present as always.
An homage to the sun, stars and moon at its finest.
For marie claire’s favourites from Zimmermann’s Fall 2022 collection, keep scrolling.