Uma Thurman, Naomi Watts, Jessica Alba and Sarah Snook made for a head-turning front row at Zimmermann’s Spring/Summer 2027 show in Paris. There was plenty of people-watching to be done, until a model appeared in a cropped top covered in golden butterflies and a sweeping ivory skirt.
Nicky Zimmermann’s starting point was the butterfly, specifically the 19th-century scientific illustrations of Australian sisters Harriet and Helena Scott. Their detailed studies informed the whimsical prints and embellishments, while the butterfly’s beauty, resilience and transformation shaped her thinking about the collection (an aside: remember Rupi Kaur’s words: “You do not just wake up and become the butterfly. Growth is a process”). It’s a fitting inspiration for the Australian label given that earlier this year, they joined the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode. (Only the French fashion body whose membership includes Dior and Chanel – it’s mega).
The label has come a long way since sisters Nicky and Simone Zimmermann launched it in Sydney in 1991. Advent International bought a majority stake in 2023, in a deal that valued the business at approximately $1.15 billion (yes, I said billion). With reported revenue of around $260 million and operating margins above 30 per cent, there is serious commercial muscle behind those delicate dresses. And this collection showed exactly why: Zimmermann understands what its customers love, and keeps giving them something new to fall for.
Of course, the butterfly is also a very apt reference for a designer so interested in movement. From my seat, I could see the laser-cut butterflies lifting away from the fabric, giving the surface a life of its own. Skirts fell unevenly around the legs, ruffles cascaded down the body and long panels trailed behind. There was a lot of intricate work, but the clothes still looked easy to move in.
A pale yellow dress was a standout, its butterfly embellishments scattered across sheer layers that dipped at one side and opened high at the other. A blush one-shoulder dress was more exuberant, with printed butterflies and ruffles running through its asymmetric skirt. These were the pieces that will appeal to anyone who comes to Zimmermann for a one-of-a-kind dress.
This wasn’t just a love story. There was lots of pieces which broke up the romance. A tan bomber jacket over a frothy printed mini. An ochre coat worn over a checked shirt and white lace trousers. You could easily imagine wearing those pieces separately, with things you already own.
The fresh white looks were strong, too. A blouse with generous sleeves and a high, ruffled neckline was paired with textured trousers. A lace halter top sat above loose white culottes. An ivory halterneck dress had sheer panels running down its length, with a skirt that flared gently around the feet. The differences in texture kept the pale palette interesting.
Colour moved through lemon and pink into lilac, dusky blue and darker denim. The softer shades suited the draping, while denim brought a welcome change of mood. A deep blue sleeveless dress, cut close through the waist before widening into a flared skirt, was one of my favourites. Its floral cutwork was elaborate, but the fabric gave it a familiarity that made it feel wearable.
That balance ran through the collection. Organza and silk were layered to reveal different patterns and finishes; lace appeared alongside softened drill. Zimmermann used these contrasts well, giving the eye somewhere to rest between the more heavily decorated pieces.
The accessories were super chic. Tinted sunglasses brought a casual feel to the dresses, and patterned scarves were tied to handbags. Several looks were worn with flat shoes, which made even the most intricate outfits feel a little more relaxed.
The butterfly could easily have become an overworked motif. Here, there was enough variation in its treatment to keep it interesting: printed onto fabric, cut into it or standing away from the surface. Seeing those details at close range made the craftsmanship easier to appreciate.
But it was the way the clothes moved that stayed with me. The layers opened like clouds and settled as the models walked, revealing new details. There was plenty of beauty in this collection, and enough ease to make you dream about wearing it.
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