Between new favourites Nensi Dojaka and Chet Lo, and old classics Simone Rocha and Erdem, Britain’s best and brightest returned with reverence to the runway, although some designers have still opted for virtual presentations in place of a fashion show.
J.W Anderson collaborated with German fashion photographer Jurgen Teller for their UK garage inspired presentation, with the photographer both in front of and behind the lense in this body-positive photoshoot. Dame Vivienne Westwood’s 19th century nautical lookbook was dialled up camp, with fashion royalty Georgia May Jagger the soulful siren leading sailors to their demise. The irrevocable Matty Bovan even presented a psychedelic suburbia, filled with crochet knits and upcycled armchairs.
These collections are making a case that the ‘phygital’ presentation model is still relevant. Whilst the pandemic taught us that fashion can transcend time and space, existing in the virtual realm as easily as it does in the physical, some designers are arguing that location is everything.
The London Aquatic Center was the host to two shows with David Koma and Rejina Pyo both diving straight back into this brave new world with colourful, contemporary womenswear collections. Elsewhere across the Thames, Simone Rocha gathered the style set in a Medieval church and supermodels and celebrities convened at a Leicester Square hotel for Richard Quinn.
We firmly believe that regardless of the climate or presentation the clothes should speak for themselves. This was best seen at the highly instagramable show from Chet Lo. This may have been his first ever fashion show, but he’s already a seasoned professional in creating lust worthy collections, with his signature spikes seen on the likes of Kylie Jenner and SZA.
And whilst this conundrum will continue to be explored in Milan, continue reading below for the major catwalk moments spotted at London Fashion Week.
Life Aquatic
For a Spring/Summer 2022 showing there is no surprise that resortwear was a prominent theme acros LFW. At Fashion East, designers Maximilian and HRH sent swimwear down the runway, with Supriya Lele serving the best beach coverups. Pool club, here we come.
Premium Headwear
Over at Richard Malone and Molly Goddard, these designers are making sun safety fashionable. Don’t get us wrong, there are a whole host of chic sun protection available on the market already, but for a typical dreary day in London, these bucket hats and Edwardian millinery are a great option for a day on the green.
Modern Suiting
Powersuits are the definition of reclaimed femininity. Contemporary womenswear designers Victoria Beckham and Margaret Howell are bringing back this timeless classic for another season. With couchy tailoring and androgynous silhouettes, this look is equally effortless as it is highly functional.
Couture Collars
70’s style camp and Peter Pan collars are all the rage this Spring. Whilst collarless shirting made the rounds a few seasons ago, the statement look is back with a vengeance, spotted across babydoll dresses, trenches, and even mesh blouses.
En Pointe
Movement and fluidity is central to some collections this season, well at least for Halpern and Roksanda. This isn’t the first time we’ve seen fashion and dance intersect on the runway and it won't be the last. More subtle nods to performance with ballet flats and baby pink coloured tulle seen at Simone Rocha and Nensi Dojaka.
