From Swim Caps To Inflatables, Milan Fashion Week Is Making A Splash

Swimwear is so hot right now.

We’re sending our deepest apologies in advance to the sommeliers and waiters who will be slinging bottomless spritzes next season, because by the looks of it it’s bound to be a hot one.

And no, we’re talking about the climate, but rather the balmy and beach-approved ensembles that everyone from Sorrento to South Bondi will be wearing.

While the runways of New York and London are ushering in a nostalgic era of 90s style a mainstay on the runway, our favourite established designers are using the catwalks at Milan Fashion Week to sartorially reference the season they are presenting.

If you had any doubts that summer would soon be upon us, then you need look any further than the sun seeking collections from Italy’s finest luxury houses.

Take Max Mara for example.

The label, which is now helmed by Brit, Ian Griffiths is shedding its conservative approach to heritage and heirloom and letting the skin, (erm, sun) seep into their collections.

Max Mara SS23

Griffith has positioned the brand as a must have for the bourgeoisie rebel, a woman who speaks her mind, knows what she wants and doesn’t have to wait on approval to get it.

But what’s the point of being a member of the upper echelon if you’re not doused in ecru, linens and swimwear inspired ensembles that would have you ready for a top-deck of a luxury super yacht off the coast of Capri in a moment’s notice?

Indeed, Max Mara are ready to set sail with their 1950s inspired ready-to-wear collection that conjures the image of a high-society jetsetter from the era of Slim Aarons and Truman Capote.

Amongst masterfully constructed flared raffia-esque pants (that evoke an image of safari David Bowie) and bias cut column dresses lie a series of silhouettes that are reminiscent of mid-century swimwear.

Max Mara SS23

During the show, bandeau and hip-hugging bikini briefs in a series of candy-coloured hues swan down the runway, calling for this season’s accessory of choice: a mocktail.

But trust Max Mara to bring these archival silhouettes into the modern age.

Later in the collection, a crepe carpenter maxi skirt that will tug on the heartstrings of any adherer of Bella Hadid and Elsa Hosk’s wardrobes.

An apt boat neck, asymmetrical black dress with a raw edge finish will certainly appeal to the 90s and minimalist inclined dressers à la Kendall Jenner.

If you haven’t booked your European Summer plans for 2023, take this collection as a reminder to start planning your itinerary, and your wardrobe.

But if you’re looking for something less benign to accompany you on your travels through the Amalfi Coast, look no further than Jeremy Scott’s wickedly fun collection for Moschino.

Moschino SS23

The patriarch of subversive and frivolous fashion, Scott’s subversive take on inflation is as equally boisterous as it is buoyant.

Also playing with 50s silhouettes, with a hint of 80s Largerfeld for Chanel through the two piece pant suits, Moschino presented a series of silhouettes with inflatable motifs throughout—a PVC inflation valve as an epaulette, a lifebuoy as an ornamental hat.

In case the nautical-inspired resort wear collection’s subversive nature was lost on you, then allow the collection’s pièce de résistance (an inflatable pink flamingo pool toy), to remind you that fashion is at its best when it’s fun.

And while the runways at Paris Fashion Week still have a case to make for what summer their designers are envisioning, it’s clear that the forecast in Milan is predicting a clement season ahead.

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