In Italy, food and wine are inseparable, woven into the fabric of daily life. From the rolling farmland of Tuscany to the sun-drenched coasts of Sicily, each region has its own signature dishes and local wines that have evolved side by side over generations.
When we think of the perfect wine for Italian food, our minds might drift to the classics: sparkling bubbles poured as aperitivo, a velvety red alongside a rich bowl of ragù, or a crisp white enjoyed with freshly shucked seafood.
Yet the world of wine has never been more innovative or dynamic. After Pinot Noir’s meteoric rise in the early 2000s and the rosé boom that followed, we’re now firmly in the era of branching out. Chilled reds, skin-contact wines, unexpected Italian varietals? The only rule is to remain curious.
And that’s perhaps one of the greatest pleasures of dining out: the opportunity to try something you may never have ordered for yourself.
As the Group Wine Director across Fink Group’s acclaimed restaurants, including OTTO and Bennelong, Amanda Yallop has spent years helping diners uncover new favourites. For her, choosing wine isn’t about possessing extensive knowledge or following rigid rules but rather understanding what you enjoy and remaining open to surprise.
Even Yallop’s own approach begins with curiosity.
“The first thing I’ll always look at is the by-the-glass section. For me, it’s a clear indicator of the overall quality and intent behind a wine list, and you can almost immediately sense how much care has gone into it,” she says.
“I tend to judge a list quite instinctively on what’s being poured by the glass. I’m looking for wines that really punch above their weight, something with personality and a bit of intrigue rather than the obvious choices.”
Most of the time, she says, she’ll move on to a bottle. But that first glass offers an opportunity to let mood lead.
“It’s about finding that perfect first glass while you’re settling in, something that sets the tone early,” she says. “Most of the time I will go on to order a bottle, but I love starting with something a little more playful or unexpected. It gives you the freedom to let your mood lead, rather than locking into a decision too quickly, and that’s often where a wine list feels at its most engaging.”
If there’s one thing Yallop wants diners to remember, it’s that there are no real mistakes when it comes to ordering wine.
“I don’t really believe there are any big mistakes when it comes to ordering wine,” she says. “It’s such a personal experience, and what matters most is that you enjoy what you choose.”
Instead, she encourages people to use the expertise around them.
“If anything, the only misstep might be not using the people around you. If you have the opportunity, speaking to someone who works in the venue and sharing what you feel like drinking can open things up in a really helpful way.”
Rather than feeling like you need to know exactly what you’re after, honesty is often the best approach.
“The most helpful thing you can do is give your sommelier an honest sense of what you’re looking for and your budget,” Yallop says. “It doesn’t need to be complicated, but that clarity allows them to guide you toward something that really suits the moment.”
“If you’re not entirely sure of style, sharing a few examples of wines you’ve enjoyed before is a great place to start. From there, they can interpret your preferences and either refine your choice or gently introduce something new that still feels familiar.”
As for what Australians should be drinking more of? Alongside Hunter Valley semillon, Yallop points to Frankland River riesling, local sparkling from Tasmania, Adelaide Hills and Orange, and lighter expressions of familiar favourites.
“Overall, it feels like there’s a real move toward styles that are lighter, more expressive, and a bit more approachable, wines that suit the way people want to drink now,” she says.
If you find yourself lingering over a long lunch at OTTO on Woolloomooloo’s Finger Wharf (and if you haven’t yet, consider this your sign to do so), Yallop’s pick is Suavia.
“It’s a beautifully dry, salty white from Veneto, with that lovely sense of freshness and restraint,” she says. “It works just as well on its own as it does alongside food, which is exactly what you want over a long, relaxed meal.”
Ultimately, Yallop believes wine culture has changed for the better.
“The world of wine has become far more inclusive. Where it once felt quite formal or even a little elitist, particularly in Australia, there’s now a much more relaxed and approachable way of engaging with it.”
That shift, she says, has made it easier to ask questions, trust your own palate and discover something new.
