When guests entered the outdoor stadium of the equestrian L’Étrier de Paris centre in the Bois de Boulogne for Chanel’s latest Haute Couture Show, they were greeted by oversized spinning pinwheels, hanging installations and cloud-like pink pouf chairs.
With the show typically taking place at the Grand Palais, the change of location allowed the fashion house room for more experimentation, both in set design and clothing aesthetics.
For the second season running, hanel worked with French installation artist Xavier Veilhan to create the dreamscape-esque venue, with music by French artist Sébastian Teller signalling the start of the show.
One by one models emerged, with noticeable patterns of tweed and houndstooth instantly recognisable, transporting guests back to the 1930s aesthetic that is constantly being reimagined.
“I have imagined the Fall-Winter 2022/23 Haute Couture show in the continuity of the previous show, leaving room for experimentation,” creative director Virginie Viard explained.
An example of this continuity? The cowboy boots adorning the feet of almost every model, which Viard says echoed the previous Haute Couture show which opened with Charlotte Casiraghi on horseback. The boots were, of course, the perfect choice for a runway held inside an equestrian centre.
“In this new collection, there are suits, long dresses like Mademoiselle Chanel imagined them in the 1930s: fitted to the body even though they have strong shoulders,” Viard continued.
Delicate lace and a colour palette of khaki, beige, pink and plenty of black — the timeless essence of Chanel pieces was effortlessly encapsulated.
Wide brim hats, flowing capri-style pants and a long metallic coat were among the standout pieces, with rounded shoulders and geometric embroidering clearly a focal point of the collection.
Viard says each piece is designed to be worn, remaining light and innately feminine.
“I can’t see myself doing it any other way,” she said.
As for the jewels, each accessory paid tribute to the first and only ‘Bijoux de Diamants’ collection created by Mademoiselle Chanel in 1932.
Towards the end of the show, the aesthetic noticeably shifted from 1930s inspired to modern evening wear. A floor-length pleated dress, a sashaying black gown with sheer sleeves, and a tulle, mid-length dress adorned with green leaves and white flowers.
To close the show, model Jill Kortleve appeared in a white strapless wedding dress, completed with a white pussycat bow and embroidered shawl.
Among the A-list attendees were Keira Knightley, Leslie Mann and Marion Cotillard. Knightley, who stunned in a lace, halter-neck black dress accessoried with signature Chanel Mary Janes and a quilted bag, perfectly embodying the Chanel aesthetic.
