Two walnuts accompanied my invitation to Dior. An unexpected choice for a house with such an elaborate vocabulary of luxury, but Jonathan Anderson has an eye for things whose interest emerges on closer inspection. These were wenwan walnuts, traditionally turned together in the hand until their ridged shells acquire a smooth patina. Before a single look appeared, they raised a question: what makes an object precious – its first impression, or what we discover with time and attention?
Rihanna, Miranda Kerr, Jennifer Lawrence, Anya Taylor-Joy, Mia Goth and Jisoo were among the guests at Dior’s Summer 2027 show in the Jardin des Tuileries. Around the Bassin de l’Octogone, mist rose across the water as the models walked a pale runway. It was a suitably grand setting for Dior, and the clothes were just as striking: jackets cut with precision, sheer layers that caught the light, skirts that lifted and changed shape as the models walked.
The collection explored how to make clothes feel airy without surrendering their structure. A black jacket ended above a brief, ruffled yellow skirt, its strict shoulders giving the fluttering hem something to push against. A loose cream cardigan met a wide pink pleated skirt that rose and fell as its wearer walked. These looks drew on Dior’s familiar contrast between a defined upper body and an expansive skirt, but loosened the relationship.
The dresses made that shift clearer. One pale pink sleeveless dress began with a close, finely worked bodice, then opened into translucent panels that floated around the knees. Another, in soft yellow, was built from irregular layers that seemed to separate in the breeze. Lace, silk mousseline and organza allowed volume without heaviness.
The petal-like volumes, cropped proportions and iridescent surfaces of Anderson’s autumn/winter collection returned with a lighter summer touch. A short cream look was thick with pink and ivory pieces that projected from its surface like petals. Elsewhere, ruffles trailed from longer garments or gathered around the shoulders. What kept the romance from becoming too precious was the clash of textures: soft fabric against checks, frothy hems above metallic shoes, ornament beside tailoring. The layers looked loosely assembled, with a bohemian, undone quality.
There was plenty here beyond the dresses. Striped shirts were worn loose over fluid floral skirts, their familiar lines cutting through the romance below. A checked jacket gave substance to a pale blouse and textured trousers. A white jacket with black edging was paired with silver trousers; elsewhere, gold and green metallics caught the daylight beneath softer tops and tailoring.
Anderson understands that a woman might want to wear a girlish tulle skirt one day and silver snakeskin trousers the next. The collection made room for those shifts in mood. So did the accessories, which continued that mix of romance and practicality. Generous, slouchy shoulder bags in neutral shades nestled beneath the arm, their substantial proportions offsetting the airy skirts. Smaller bags in black, burgundy and pale yellow gave the layered looks a sharper finish, while fringed styles echoed the movement of the clothes.
Chic black pointed slingbacks paired little bows with contrasting black-and-white snakeskin-patterned toes while silver sandals had fine straps, bows at the front and tiny dangling embellishments, making them look almost like jewellery for the feet. Expect the latter to go viral. Red leather slingbacks offered a sturdier alternative, with broad straps, block heels and pale piping tracing their edges. Then came the suede slip-ons in tan and olive, with black rubber toe caps and thick, treaded soles. Beneath delicate fabrics, their practical heft gave the romance an unexpected edge.
Ultimately, the show’s lasting impression was one of freedom: the freedom to mix a ruffled skirt with a severe jacket, to wear silver trousers one day and a floating floral dress the next. Anderson understands that women don’t dress to express the same side of themselves every day. At Dior, he gave them plenty of ways to change their minds.
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