Copenhagen Fashion Week has concluded its 20th anniversary season, a milestone celebrating two decades of the Danish capital’s remarkable ascent on the global fashion stage.
Over the years, Copenhagen has evolved into an unofficial fifth fashion week, earning a formidable reputation for its eclectic design perspective, influential homegrown labels, and street style that feels as instinctive as it is instantly recognisable.
The Spring/Summer 2027 season, which ran from August 3 to August 7, has commemorated this landmark year with more than 34 runway shows and presentations, bringing together some of Scandinavia’s most established designers alongside a new generation of creative voices shaping the future of the region’s fashion landscape.
Returning favourites including Henrik Vibskov, OpéraSPORT, Baum und Pferdgarten, Marimekko, Stine Goya, and By Malene Birger have anchored the schedule, while emerging labels such as Stem, Taus, and Renè have stepped into the limelight with their latest collections.
Beyond the runway, Copenhagen’s influence is felt most vividly in the spaces between the shows, unfurling across its cobblestoned streets and revealing itself through the city’s instinctive, idiosyncratic approach to dressing. Here, refined functionality meets considered minimalism, while precise tailoring is enlivened by saturated colour, playful proportions and unexpected juxtapositions.
This season’s coveted International Guest Slot belongs to New York label Collina Strada, as founder Hillary Taymour makes her Copenhagen Fashion Week debut, bringing the celebrations to a fitting close with one of the final shows of the season.
Ahead, our favourite shows from Copenhagen Fashion Week SS27.
Collina Strada
For her Copenhagen debut, Hillary Taymour conjured a world of exquisite eccentricity with “Delirium in Bloom”, a collection that softened Collina Strada’s anarchic spirit with a more romantic sensibility. Set against the city’s waterfront, the presentation unfolded like a fever dream in motion: ethereal, exuberant and deliberately untethered from the conventions of the everyday wardrobe.
Delicate chiffon and tulle were transformed through intricate manipulation, gathered, twisted and sculpted into sinuous, asymmetrical forms that seemed to float around the body. Elsewhere, ribbons, patchworked textiles and densely layered embellishment yielded a rich interplay of texture, each look revealing the designer’s fascination with the possibilities latent within cloth. There was a sense of indulgence throughout, as familiar materials were rendered strange and sumptuous through painstaking intervention.
The palette moved dreamily from milky creams to powder pink, watery blue and vivid green, punctuated by sequins and glimmers of metallic light. Romantic silhouettes were offset by slouching cargoes and exaggerated proportions, while glittering beauty looks and strands of tinsel lent the collection a mischievous, almost folkloric quality.
What emerged was a particularly enchanting expression of Taymour’s maximalist imagination: unruly yet refined, fantastical yet deeply tactile. Her Copenhagen debut came as part of a collaboration between Copenhagen Fashion Week and The Climate Pledge, to which Taymour has formally committed.
OpéraSPORT
Opening Copenhagen Fashion Week’s SS27 calendar, OpéraSport offered an elegant meditation on renewal, femininity and the poetry of the natural world. Presented amid the verdant splendour of Carl Jacobsen’s gardens, the collection seemed to borrow its language from its surroundings, translating nature’s quiet proliferation into a wardrobe of fluid silhouettes and botanical reverie.
Nature has long been woven into the language of fashion, but this season designers have pushed that relationship into more fantastical territory, transforming the natural world into something louder, stranger and decidedly more theatrical, from Dior to Chanel. At OpéraSport, however, the interpretation was more unruly.
Flowers emerged as a recurring leitmotif, blooming across fabrics in delicate and abstracted forms, while a restrained palette of chalk, stone and soft grey lent the collection a sense of studied serenity. Against this muted canvas, the florals assumed an almost painterly quality, bringing movement and vitality to pared-back compositions.
Silhouettes oscillated between languid and sculptural, with sheer layers, elongated proportions and fluid draping imparting an ethereal lightness. Sleek one-pieces and softly tailored separates introduced a more assured counterpoint, creating a dialogue between sensuality and restraint.
Anne Sofie Madsen
With “The New Desire”, Anne Sofie Madsen looked resolutely towards the future, imagining fashion as a space for possibility rather than nostalgia. Presented as part of CPHFW NEWTALENT (Copenhagen Fashion Week’s talent support scheme for emerging Nordic brands), the collection found its softness in contrast, pairing slouching trousers and sporty separates with layers of translucent chiffon and organza.
Sheer fabrics delicately obscured and exposed silhouettes, while bias-cut satin and cascading necklines brought an insouciant sensuality to the collection. Elsewhere, hand-smocked organza and layers of dye created subtle gradations of colour, from muted sea foam to buttery yellow.
Underpinning the collection was an exploration of geometry, with simple forms transformed through draping and manipulation into something far more fluid.
Skall Studio
For SS27, Skall Studio returned to its romantic, pastoral vocabulary with “La Piscine”, a collection steeped in the languorous pleasures of summer. Presented in a garden setting, the show embraced a distinctly bucolic sensibility, with loose, airy silhouettes and delicate fabrics destined for summer wardrobes, even as a light rain fell over the presentation.
The collection drew on the soft light and rustic romance of the French countryside, filtered through a distinctly Scandinavian lens. Voluminous cotton dresses, smocked details and billowing blouses were offset by crisp linen tailoring and utilitarian barn jackets, creating a pleasing tension between pastoral femininity and practical wear.
Baskets, raffia accessories and delicate charms added a whimsical touch, while pastel florals and nostalgic prints imbued the collection with a sense of faded summer romance.
By Malene Birger
After six years away from the runway, By Malene Birger returned to Copenhagen with “Halcyon”, a quietly evocative meditation on heritage, renewal and the rituals of everyday dressing. Presented at creative director Emilie Martinsen-Kønigsfeldt’s family home, the setting imbued the collection with an intimate sense of belonging, while its palette followed the arc of a day, moving from luminous ivory and soft neutrals into sun-drenched gold and, finally, profound black.
Fluid dresses and relaxed separates were countered by sculptural outerwear and considered tailoring, while tactile fabrics lent depth to the otherwise minimalistic silhouettes. More than a return to the runway, “Halcyon” felt like a quiet reaffirmation of the codes that have long defined By Malene Birger: refined, sensual and unmistakably Scandinavian.
