In Christian Dior’s Spring/Summer 2022 collection, Creative Director Maria Grazia Chiuri invites us to the Piper Club, the legendary Roman nightclub at the crossroads of art, design, and fashion. The club was at its prime during the height of 1960’s counterculture, where, at Dior, Marc Bohan fiercely spearheaded the luxury house.
It was this hypnotic setting, one of curiosity and desire, that was the inspiration behind Dior’s dreamlike presentation. Turning back to a time of debauchery and dissonance with established conventions, Chiuri explores the richness of the 1960’s and Marc Bohan’s tenure as Creative Director.
Bohan helmed the house for almost 30 years, replacing longtime mentee of Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, in 1960. It was an era of beatniks and mods, and the swinging 60’s we’re just starting. In 1961, Bohan cemented his legacy as a designer with the debut of his Autumn/Winter collection which heralded a new ‘Slim Look’ for women.
These iconic streamlined silhouettes are reused by Chiuri with revealing cuts, graphic effects and geometric prints. The result is an amalgamation of hyper masculine and feminine styles in a popsicle-esque colour palette reminiscent of a casino roulette wheel. Specifically, the hues and structured shapes are evocative of artworks by the Italian artist Anna Paparatti.
Tightly tailored, double-breasted coats are complimented with A-line mini skirts and modern Mary Janes. Elsewhere, vinyl go-go boots are spotted on halterneck shift dresses in the spirit of 60’s supermodels Twiggy and Jean Shrimpton. Boyfriend style crafted denim was contrasted with workwear style boots and a contemporary bowling bag.
The sporting motif continues, with boxer low crotch shorts, bowling jackets and tennis skirts seen throughout the collection in colourful primary hues. In recent years, women have coveted Dior’s menswear line, including the B23 high top sneakers and Saddle bags—have the roles finally been reversed? We have every reason to believe these camp collared shirts and matching shorts will be a staple in every ‘his and hers’ shared wardrobe.
The overall highlight was one that was quite left of field. Geometric prints in washes of bubblegum pink, acid yellow and chartreuse were overlaid with screen printed animals – lions, tigers and bears but no Dior bumblebee. For us, the pink shearling lined fur coat was a standout.
Whilst this collection may have been a step back in time, Dior’s future as an iconic maison is steadfast. We’re already counting down the days till Chiuri’s next show.
Keep scrolling below for our favourite looks from the collection.