On September 22, despite the rain that forced a venue change to the label’s HQ on Via Mecenate 77, Gucci entered a brand-new era honouring tradition yet welcoming a fresh and exciting change.
Creative Director Sabato De Sarno debuted his inaugural spring 2024 collection for the Italian house with a shade inspired by the colour of the original lining of the first-ever Jackie bag, as well as the elevator of the Savoy Hotel, where Guccio Gucci once worked.
In the week leading up to the debut, the world has been teased with the striking burgundy shade on billboards splashed around the world and on social media, in anticipation for the designer’s first collection, simply titled, Ancora.
An Italian word meaning ‘still’, Ancora was chosen by De Sarno as the muse at the heart of the collection. “It’s a story of the joy of life, passion, humanity, people, real life, irreverent glamour, provocation, confidence and simplicity,” he explained in the show notes. “A story of richness and lust/desire, of spontaneity, of light, of a party at the first light of day.”
After a seven-year hiatus, supermodel Daria Werbowy, the first official face of De Sarno’s collection, sat in the front row alongside Gemma Ward.
Once the show began, the room faded to black. A soundtrack created by Mark Ronson set the scene as models were illuminated down a sleek runway in a series of looks that steered away from the maximalism the house has been known for the last few years, and instead focused on sleek, everyday essentials. The new minimal uniform saw crisp whites, greys and navy in suiting, skirts, shorts and structured jackets. Tiny suits, as introduced by Tom Ford for Gucci, made an appearance on the runway, with De Sarno’s sophisticated laid-back approach.
Coats and accessories in lime green and the distinctive Gucci burgundy brought splashes of colour to the otherwise monochromatic runway. Loafers, both flat and platform , were the star of the accessories, completing the looks in the house’s famed GG monogram.
In attendance, marie claire Australia’s Fashion Director Naomi Smith stated that the most talked-about show of the season lived up to all the hype.
“For me, it felt like a younger, cooler version of Tom Ford’s Gucci. The girls looked super-cool and sexy, while the fashion felt youthful. With so many mini dresses, it was a clear and concise message,” Smith stated.
As for the most coveted pieces to take away from the collection, Smith makes note that it’s about gold chains and platform footwear. “We’re likely to see a lot more of the high wedge platform – some covered in Gucci logo and others in colourful patent snake skin. A simple short dress is another piece to look for, and accessories-wise, a statement gold chain around the neck will become a much sought-after piece.”
Born in Italy, De Sarno was appointed by the House in January this year and had previously worked behind the scenes at Prada and Dolce & Gabbana before joining Valentino where he remained for 13 years.