Fashion month is in full swing and there’s a lot to look forward to over the course of London, Milan and Paris fashion weeks throughout September 2023.
From new creative directors starting (hello, Gucci’s Sabato De Sarno) to other beloved creative directors exiting (farewell, Sarah Burton), it’s sure to be a noteworthy show year.
We can’t wait to celebrate the visual feasts sure to saunter down the runways, and while we’ll need to wait with bated breath to view the new collections, here’s what we do know about what is going on across fashion month.
New York: 7 Sept – 13 Sept
Peter Do’s Debut For Helmut Lang
It’s an era of change for the fashion industry, a fact echoed in the latest collection of New York-based fashion brand Helmut Lang. The label had a string of creative directors before moving to so-called ‘editor in residence’ roles. However, it decided to return to the ‘creative director’ moniker, hiring New York designer Peter Do to head the label in May 2023.
Do’s minimalist tendencies are a perfect match for Helmut Lang’s strong lines, offering a solid first collection that heroed 90s minimalism and stayed true to the Lang palette.
London: 15 Sept – 19 Sept
The British Fashion Council (BFC) Celebrates New Designers
After 30 years of supporting new designers, the BFC is throwing a party-meets-exhibition at the Design Museum, sponsored by Alexander McQueen. BFC alumnus will be donating a series of signature prints that have been reimagined into luxury tote bags, including Christopher Kane, Erdem, Giles Deacon, Halpern, Mary Katrantzou and Roksanda.
Milan: 19 Sept – 25 Sept
Sabato De Sarno Makes His Gucci Debut
When Gucci’s parent company Kering announced that Alessandro Michele would be leaving his role as creative director of Gucci after seven years, a vacuum of power was born.
The brand has since twice shown collections created by the ‘Gucci Studio’ fashion team, without the head honcho position in place. The Spring/Summer 2024 collection will be Sarno’s debut, after finishing up at Valentino, where he was the director of men’s and women’s collections.
The news of Sarno’s debut had also been bolstered by rumours that 90s fashion icon Daria Werbowy may walk in the show. The model made her long-awaited return to the public eye as the face of Sarno’s first ever Gucci campaign in late August.
Moncler x Pharrell Williams
The collaboration between music producer and Louis Vuitton creative director Pharrell Williams and luxury label Moncler will culminate in an exciting launch party with a live performance DJ set. The details of this exclusive collaboration remain under wraps, but we can’t help but wonder what Williams and Moncler have dreamt up.
Paris: 25 Sept – 30 Sept
Bulgari Opens The Week
Luxury jeweller Bulgari is expected to host another of its star-studded parties to kick off Paris Fashion Week. The brand has been known to draw big names (usually dressed impeccably for the occasion) such as Zendaya and Anne Hathaway.
Christopher Esber Debuts
Australian designer Christopher Esber is making his debut at Paris Fashion Week, and not in the way you might think. The Sydney-based designer, who is beloved by celebrities the likes of Margot Robbie and Dua Lipa, is opting for a twist on the classic debut showcase.
Esber told the Australian Financial Review that the location “doesn’t feel traditionally Parisian.”
He also told Vogue Australia, “When I was planning to do this, I was like, ‘Just because we’re going to Paris it doesn’t mean we need to go to town and do that big Paris show,’ or whatever you think a debut show should feel or look like.”
Esber’s debut at Paris Fashion Week follows his recent nomination as Designer of the Year for the Australian Fashion Laureate in 2023.
Maison Margiela Returns
While Maison Margiela has only been showing Haute Couture for a few seasons, the brand is back with its SS24 ready-to-wear collection. Little is known about the show yet, but the return itself has made seats hotly anticipated.
Mugler
Mugler is making its return to the runway circuit, showing on October 2 for an evening slot at 6pm. While not too much is known about the show, fans of the brand are hoping we’ll see a return to the iconic Mugler shows of the 80s and 90s (with a star-studded runway, of course).
Alexander McQueen
With the news that designer to the stars (and specifically Kate Middleton), Sarah Burton, will be leaving Alexander McQueen, fans of the brand are clamouring to view her final collection.
After 13 years at the helm, it will be a bitter-sweet goodbye to the iconic creative director. Kering, McQueen’s parent company, are yet to announce her successor.
Other News In September
Phoebe Philo To Launch Her Brand
British fashion designer and ex-creative director of Céline and Chloé, Phoebe Philo, is set to launch her own brand at the end of September. At this stage it doesn’t appear that there will be a runway show, but the fashion set are already abuzz in anticipation of what her collection will bring.
“Our inaugural collection will be revealed soon, in September 2023,” a message on the brand’s new Instagram account read. “We will be opening for registration in July 2023 and look forward to being back in touch then.”
Australian Models To Walk In Major Shows
While not confirmed, there are rumours that Australian models are set to have quite the presence throughout fashion month.
Australian modelling superstar Angelina Kendall, who was scouted over Instagram during the pandemic, is fresh off the back of her Versace campaign. She’s already opened shows in New York for Altuzarra and Dion Lee, as well as walking for Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors, Khaite and Jason Wu.
Other names to watch this fashion week include Evie Ashby, Lily Vander Meeden and Olivia Jonasz.
