FASHION

Louis Vuitton Goes Retro For New Womenswear Collection At Paris Fashion Week

Think exaggerated structure and billowing skirts.

Encased in an an orange shroud, Nicolas Ghesquière’s collection for Louis Vuitton walked purposefully down the runway in layered volumes and exact tailoring that explored a retrospective of Parisian fashion and French elegance.

The Maison has been based in Paris since its inception in 1854, a tradition carried through to its current day, with womenswear guided under Ghesquière’s deft hand since 2013, so it only made sense that the country’s penchant for fashion be the inspiration for the new collection.

Of course, the highly anticipated show was attended by a slew of Hollywood celebrities, including Zendaya, Cate Blanchett, Ana de Armas, Jennifer Connelly, Alicia Vikander, Chloë Grace Moretz and more.

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(Credit: Image: Getty)

Ghesquière’s collection was designed to honour the house’s spirit for both Paris and travel.

The collection played with the contrast between billowing layers and thoughtful tailoring for a line that was as strong and dominant as it was delicate and elegant. Perhaps a nod to the women of Paris who can be found dressed as sharply as their wit.

While there was no consistent colourway throughout the collection, we see the Maison play with pinks, blushes, yellows and baby blues, contrasted with deep blacks and metal accents. A masterful display of corsetry added a sensual flair to the refined collection, as did a series of glossy dresses that appeared to sheen in an almost otherworldly manner as they sashayed down the runway.

There was a vintage element to the collection that brought a retro flair to the fluid silhouettes and exaggerated proportions.

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(Credit: Image: Getty)
louis-vuitton-collection-paris-fashion-week-2024
(Credit: Image: Getty)
louis-vuitton-collection-paris-fashion-week-2024
(Credit: Image; Getty)
louis-vuitton-collection-paris-fashion-week-2024
(Credit: Image: Getty)

The show took place within a building on the avenue des Champs-Elysées, No. 103, which is an historic building emblematic of the Art Nouveau style from the 19th century. It’s a location that Louis Vuitton have taken over, under the watchful eye of Pietro Beccari, who masterminded Dior’s 30 Montaigne flagship store. Louis Vuitton have not yet announced what their plans for the location will be, but despite the secrecy, we’re sure it’s destined to be quite special.

As yet, the building is not filled to the brim with shelves upon shelves of lusted after Louis Vuitton accessories and bright store lighting, instead covered in draped orange sails that immersed guests in the buttery glow of warm summer light. Production Designer James Chinlund reimagined the space as a hot-air balloon, a nod to the travel theme embedded in the show.

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(Credit: Image: Getty)

Chinlund worked with Spanish production company Penique on the sails’ installation, notably an inflatable balloon-like structure that grows and expands to fill the space with light, texture and that monochromatic orange hue. Of course, in true Louis Vuitton style, the materials used by Penique are 100 per cent recycled and 100 per cent recyclable.

After the show, it’s to be collected and recycled into new window displays for Louis Vuitton stores.

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