I went on safari for my honeymoon. The marriage didn’t last, but the memory of the safari did – it’s still one of the most extraordinary trips of my life. Two children and a full-time job later, the idea of casually jetting off to Africa feels… ambitious. But I have a secret – I’ve found Africa in Canberra. I know how that sounds, but let me explain.
For my daughter’s 13th birthday, I wanted to do something special (it’s hard to wow kids these days when you’re competing with the shine of digital devices). I’d read about Jamala Wildlife Lodge in Canberra – a place where you can sleep next to tigers (don’t worry, there’s a glass barrier), wake up next to sun bears (yes, really), and sit on your balcony as giraffes casually stroll past. All of this, in Canberra? Truly. That last one is what we chose, and it was, quite simply, magic. I’ve always been animal-obsessed. Give me a giraffe or a lion to gaze at and I’m entirely content – in fact, I’m one of those people who generally prefers the company of animals to people (if you’re the same, you’re my kind of person).
Since its acquisition in 1998 by Richard and Maureen Tindale, what was once a struggling aquarium and wildlife park has been transformed into one of Australia’s most respected zoological facilities, built on a clear ethos: animal welfare first. From the outset, the focus was on creating expansive, enriching habitats that far exceed typical urban zoo standards, alongside providing sanctuary for animals rescued from circuses and inadequate private collections. Over time, the zoo has evolved into a leader in conservation and education, contributing to breeding programs, supporting wildlife initiatives, and fostering meaningful – but carefully managed – interactions between visitors and animals. Still family-run, with multiple generations involved, it has also cultivated a deeply committed team, many of whom began as volunteers, reinforcing a strong sense of purpose and community at its core.
Jamala Wildlife Lodge is tucked into the National Zoo & Aquarium, but it feels far more remote than that. The moment you arrive, you’re part of the zoo until you leave – it’s a fully immersive experience. Your itinerary is taken care of: meals, guided tours, animal encounters and even downtime are all carefully organised into what becomes a surprisingly full, beautifully paced stay.
The animal encounters are what make it so special. Within hours of arriving, we fed sharks and sun bears (more cute than scary), had meerkats sitting on our laps (surely the most ridiculously cute animals on the planet), and gave giraffes carrots from our suite balcony (serious eyelash envy). It’s my idea of heaven. Oh, and the kids loved it too.
My favourite part? The cheetah encounter. I’ve seen cheetahs in the wild before, but to pat one while it purrs – that’s something else. Up close, they’re unexpectedly gentle. Smaller than you imagine, with this quiet, almost shy energy.
There are just 18 suites scattered throughout the grounds, each designed around a different animal experience. Some sit beside lions or tigers, others near sharks or meerkats, but the most interactive – and, I would argue, the most magical – are the Giraffe Treehouses.
Our suite was set within its own private enclosure, reached by walking past deer and alpacas. The space itself is warm and considered — African-inspired textures, a generous king bed and a deep bath. It’s super luxurious. Plus, there’s a bottle of Moët & Chandon on arrival and, one of the benefits of single parenting, the whole bottle is mine.
From the balcony, we met Skye and Khamisi, the lodge’s resident giraffes, who wandered up for a carrot. Within minutes, we were feeding them by hand – all long lashes and slow, graceful movements. I could barely believe my eyes. The irony is, you don’t feel like you’re in a zoo at all – probably because once it closes and everyone leaves, it feels like you have the whole place to yourself.
An evening at the lodge is pretty spectacular. Firstly, how often do you get the zoo to yourself? Pre-dinner drinks are served on the balcony overlooking the lion enclosure as the light fades, and then everyone moves into dinner – a delicious multi-course experience that ends with you coming face to face with two lions resting in their den, just metres from where you’re sitting.
We were seated at a beautifully set table, candlelight flickering, glasses of red in hand (mine, not my teen’s) – and just metres away, behind a pane of glass, two lions walked into view. As in, right there. Close enough to see the texture of their fur, the weight of their movement, the power in their presence.
What elevates Jamala beyond a one-of-a-kind stay is its deeper purpose. At its core is a “conservation through tourism” model – meaning your stay directly supports the work of the National Zoo & Aquarium, from breeding programs for endangered species to global anti-poaching initiatives. The lodge has contributed significant funding to organisations protecting wildlife both locally and internationally, while also providing a safe, long-term home for rescued animals from circuses and private collections.
Sustainability is embedded into the operation, with solar energy, considered water usage and strong recycling practices all working to minimise environmental impact. But perhaps the most powerful part is the education — through guided experiences, you leave not just amazed, but more aware of the role we all play in protecting the natural world.
After just one night, what struck me most about Jamala was how immersive it all is. You’re not just visiting a zoo — you’re living inside it. One moment you’re sipping wine, the next you’re locking eyes with a predator. You fall asleep knowing there are wild animals all around you, and wake to the soft, unfamiliar sounds of them moving through their enclosures.
As we packed up to leave, my daughter was already asking when we could come back. Because what stays with you isn’t just the luxe hotel suite — it’s the connection to the animals.
Sometimes, the best experiences are the ones waiting just a few hours from home. And if you’re lucky, they look a little bit like Africa — right here in Canberra.
Go to jamalawildlifelodge.com.au
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